VINTAGE PETTICOATS - Finding Your Perfect Slip

FRISKY FROCKS VINTAGE
VINTAGE PETTICOATS - Finding Your Perfect Slip
(By Danielle "Nellie" Nestor)
Certainly Vintage petticoats are all the rage these days. They have made a huge geeback worldwide, not just with dancers or Lindy-Hoppers, but with much of the general Vintage-savvy public. And is it any wonder? These fabulous, fluffy and luxurious little fashion wonders are truly the backbone of the classic "Hourglass" figure. They sharply epitomize the great romanticism of many times past and when you find the perfect petticoat, no doubt, you will be cherishing it and holding on to it for many years to gee.
Finding the perfect petticoat though...it is easier said than done. It is one of those elusive vintage items that, time and time again, I've seen, can pose some real problems, particularly when buying on-line and unable to see the item firsthand.
I have dealt Vintage Couture, on and off okay, for over a decade now. I have literally been asked and answered many thousands of questions, but the one subject that has been thrown my way much more than any other is that of petticoats.
And in this day-and-age of rampant (and often very impersonal) e-gemerce, it is now more important than ever to ask yourself, and your potential seller, very pertinent questions regarding these delicate, and often pricey, garments.
1) WHAT IS THE ACTUAL PETTICOAT FABRIC? AND WHAT DIFFERENCE DOES THIS MAKE?
A very simple question, yet one that makes a world of difference with a petticoat and the particular use that you intend it for. I've detailed thefour most gemonly used materials:
*CHIFFON: One of the best in petticoats, particularly if it's of a nylon base. Fabric is light and airy and conforms well to most overlay fabrics. Skirting will lie much more smoothly and naturally, especially if the petticoat has no major adornments (i.e. ribbons, attached flowers, etc.). It is soft and will feel so lovely against the skin and will not pull or snag on nylons.
*TAFFETA:Also a very good choice, depending on the underlayers. Taffeta is sleek and also offers a good and even overlay. Your best and most desireableTaffeta petticoats (bothModern and Vintage alike)provide this fabric on the outer AND inner layers, keeping the tulle in the middle and away from both the skirting and the legs.Particularly useful for tea-length and formal ball-gown pieces.
*TULLE: Of course, Tulle netting is a natural geponent of most petticoats, however I don't regemend an ALL-TULLE petticoat in most situations. There are some exceptions to this rule however.PureTulle petticoats are used with most Square Dance pieces and that works perfectly fine. There is just so much fabric with those types of skirting, that it usually looks just smashing. These types of slips can also be used with thicker fabrics. They are particularly effective with ultra full skirts that are of a heavier cotton, jacquard, wool or thick taffeta. Indeed, if you are needing a full "Bouffant" look with a super swingy and thick skirting, you may have no other choice but to choose an All-Tulle slip, and in most cases, it will look just beautiful.
*COTTON: Cotton petticoats are, in my opinion, just beautiful...though sadly, very undervalued at the current time. I love them for the fact that they do have a verynice overlay with skirting AND for the fact that they're so easy to care for. Most Edwardian and older petticoats were made of pure cotton (and if you do find a nice one, DO SNATCH IT UP...they are a quickly dwindling treasure). Cottton petticoats were also quite fashionable in the 1950's. Many were made of intricate eyelet weaves, shirred and donned with Georgian lace trimmings, and a lot were double-layered with tulle inserts. They are normally not ultra full, but will provide such a lovely moderate "swing" to skirting, which is particularly nice with casual day pieces when you don't want to be too terriblyflambouyant. Indeed, some of the old cotton petticoats are so lovely that I regemend that they not be hidden as an undergarment, but simply used as skirts within themselves.
2) WHAT IS THE LENGTH OF THE PETTICOAT?
Before purchasing a petticoat to pair up with a particular piece, you must make sure that their lengths coincide. This is really a matter of taste. For instance, some people prefer that their petticoats peek out below the skirting, showing just a bit. This can really make for a darling and flirty look, however if you're not one of those people then I highly suggest that you take this measurement BEFORE bidding or buying. If you wish for the petticoat to lay concealed, then my general rule of thumb is for it to be NO MORE than 3 inches shorter than the garment skirting...and that is only if it's a mid to heavy weight fabric. If you're dealing with a dress or skirt that is of a lighter-weight and/or silky fabric, then it needs to be as close to the skirting length as possible.
HOWEVER, the great thing about petticoats is that they can easily be taken up. A simple tucking can be added in the midriff, it can be hemmed off or cut off or altered in any variety of ways.....particularly if the piece will never be used as an outerwear seperate. Just keep this in mind.....if you find a slip that you simply love, but it's slightly too long, by all means, don't let this deter you. Just get in touch with the seller beforehand and determine if you can alter it in any acceptable way.
3) WILL THE FULLNESS OF THE PETTICOAT WORK?
This is probably the question that I get asked the most. And with good reason, however it is something that you are most likely more responsible for answering than your seller. Afterall, you know firsthand the fullness of the garment in question. You have a much better feel of the entire ensemble and should not rely entirely on the seller to make this determination.
If you look at the petticoat listing and are still not sure, then there are certainly someuseful questions to ask the seller. For instance, how many layers are in the piece? And what is each layer made of? Also (if the garment is shown modeled on a mannequin or dressform), what is the natural bottom circumference? Or for that matter, thenaturalmiddle circumference? You could even just ask for the front measurements and then double the number yourself (with many new or part-time sellers this is probably the best bet).
In general, just try to get the best feel that you can for the fullness before bidding. If the slip is simply pictured splayed out on a table or mattress and not professionally modeled, well, you're just gambling around. You very well MIGHT end up with a really sizzling piece of vintage, but it might not work at all with the garment that you need a "mate" for.
4) HOW ABOUT THE PETTICOAT COLOR:
If your skirting is non-sheer, printed, medium to dark in shade and/or thick and you intend to wear the slip concealed (i.e. not hanging below the hem line) then it makes absolutely no difference what the color is. If your garment is light to mid-weight and of a lighter shade (i.e. white, cream or pastels) then you'll definitely want to opt for a petticoat that is lighter in shade.
5) CAN PETTICOATS DOUBLE AS SKIRTS?
Absolutely. There are certainly no restrictions to this notion. All those glam old pieces were perfectly created to offer some fullness and private pleasures in "Days-Gone-By", but in modern times they can certainly offer so much more. The quality, tailoring, fabrics and accents are so amazing and virtually unmatched by most contemporary designers....so why not? By all means, proudly wear them as a skirt. Even if they are sheer, they can easily and inexpensively be countered by a simple underslip. Without a doubt, the grandest Vintage petticoats SHOULD truly be seen.
6) OTHER IMPERATIVE QUESTIONS:
* How is the waist band? Does it still have decent stretch?
*Are there many snags and/or runs on the garment? (particularly important when dealing with Chiffon's)
*Is there any notable seam stress? Holes? Seam seperations? (usually the most potentially worn part is where the midriff connects with the actual slip). Also, has the fabric thinned considerably? Does it seem limp and/or frail?
IN CLOSING - THE PETTICOAT PLANET
It is of no certainty just how long this "Bouffant" fad will last. Another ten years, twenty years? I really don't know, but then again I've never been one to succumb to fads and just call them as I see them.
What I do know is that the TRUE Vintage petticoat is a slowly dying breed. At this particular moment in time you might log-in at any given timeand find a couple dozen or so really high-end pieces, but a decade from now I highly doubt that this will be the case.
If you really and truly love this Vintage look, then right here and now is the time to act. There are only a handful of years left for hesitation and I honestly can not stress this enough. These amazing pieces (particularly the ones that are in such wearable shape) are so hard to gee by and will begee even more scarce, little by little and day by day.
And when you do find the Perfect Petticoat, please treat it with kid gloves. Always wear it with a littlebit of mindfullness and store it properly. And if you take these precautions, who knows? Many years from now your own child might be wearing and thoroughly enjoyingthis same perfect petticoat....or even reselling it on okay for a nice little chunk of change!